Showing posts with label silk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label silk. Show all posts

Sep 9, 2010

Cotton masquerading as fine silk

The reign of Napoleon III (1852-1870) - called the Second Empire - was characterized by a period of rapid economic growth in France that created a prosperous middle class. Many of these newly-affluent middle class people now wanted to own larger homes and to create interiors that would be like the luxurious rooms in the very wealthiest houses.
The printed-textile manufacturers were quick to respond to the demand by creating cotton print motifs that looked like expensive silks, but were less expensive and could be produced quickly. These cotton fabric manufacturers strove to elevate the quality of the floral and botanical prints by hiring artists and Parisian-trained designers to create the motifs.
First below are two examples of cotton prints designed to look like the elegant striped silks. Notice the faux moiré background on the red stripe with cherubs.
The next two pictures show medium-heavy cotton prints that were intended to look like heavy silk jacquard furnishing fabric. Indeed, when hung as drapes, these fabric have the aura of sumptuous silks.
The last cotton print would have been less expensive to produce since it used only one color and was printed on a lighter-weight cotton. The striated background was designed to look like a taffeta.  This kind of pretty print would likely have been used in a boudoir or a child's bedroom.

May 1, 2010

Very clever antique faux prints

By the second half of the 19th century, when French printing techniques were more precise and faster, following trends or creating trends became part of the marketing philosophy of many textile manufacturers. One design technique that was popular was to create a printed fabric that resembled hand-stitchery. Hand-stitching was still the rule in most homes, so it's odd to think the embroiderers and women who worked needlepoint would buy faux prints, but they undoubtedly did. All fabrics on the post are from the 19th century.
The first picture below shows a faux crewel work on a white background.
The next three pictures show a technique that was called "chiné à la branche" which was a kind of ikat weave. The yarn was dyed in the pattern before being woven. Once it was woven, it formed the motif, but created a blurry effect.  The first picture below shows the real thing - a woven silk "chiné à la branche."  The next two are printed cottons, designed to imitate the technique.
The next sample uses a geometric rug pattern and then creates a print that looks like embroidery and cording.
The last two shown here create the illusion of needlepoint floral motifs on a flat background.